watervole: (Default)
 My Czech friend, VJezkova on LJ , introduced me to the Czech technique of decorating eggs with wax embossing.  Wonderfully simple: you don't need much beyond a packet of wax crayons, a pencil, a pin and a way to melt wax.  The designs are very pretty, but all the YouTube videos are in Czech!
I looked for a book to tell me a bit more about the technique and this was the only one.  (All the other books on egg decorating are about Russian pyanski techniques)
This book fitted the bill nicely.  It showed me lot of useful patterns, explained that beeswax was better than wax crayons if I wanted to do wax-resist patterns (beeswax melts more easily, so is easier to remove) and had useful suggestions on how to hang eggs, etc.
For my next egg, I'm going to try some paraffin wax to dilute and shade the colours from the wax crayons.
I wasn't terribly interested in the sections on how to use decorated eggs in floral arrangements or wreaths (hence only four stars), but the book was well worth the money and I happily recommend it to anyone who would like to try a different egg decorating technique.
Even my three-year old granddaughter was able to make a rough pattern on her egg (obviously, you need to supervise children carefully near whatever you are using to melt your wax)

(I got my copy for just a few pounds, but Amazon algorithms are currently hitting silly prices, so if you fancy getting a copy, just wait until the price settles down again)

watervole: (Default)
 vjezkova on LJ introduced me the the Czech method of decorating eggs.

It's done with melted wax crayons.  I used a scent burner with a tea light to provide heat and once I'd got some empty tealights, I used them to put wax in and just put them on top of the scent burner to reduce the mess (and retain wax for next time).  You apply the wax with a pencil with a blob-headed pin stuck in it.  Takes a bit of practice.  The wax must be warm, not just melted and it's best if you touch it to the egg, pause for a moment and then do the draw move.  (I'll link to a video further down, but the voice over is in Czech)

Here is my second attempt (the first attempt was done with Oswin and consisted mainly of blue dots all over the egg)

Video - the beeswax is optional (I asked Vera) 

watervole: (Judith)
To keep your cards in order, and reduce the risk of accidents from passing toddlers, cats and helpful relatives just tidying things away, it pays to number them. That way, if anything goes wrong, you can put them back in the correct place. It’s also useful if you make a mistake during the weaving, because you can check the card order to see if that’s the cause of the problem. (When we get onto the actual weaving, feel free to show me a photo of anything that looks wrong, and I’ll help you fix it.)
Number the cards on both sides, starting with card 1. The same number goes on both sides of the card.
The card in the photo is my number 4. (It’s been used in a previous project, so it also has ABCD going clockwise around it. A lot of card weaving projects (although not this one) use the ABCD notation to control the pattern.)

Because this project only uses two colours, and also because I wanted to pick a pattern that was easy to do, but had interesting variations for those who want to play around a bit, I’ve used dark (black) and light (pink, because a white pen wouldn’t really show on a white card...)
Find any way you like to mark the top and bottom of the card with your dark and light colours. If the card is very shiny, you may need to use a sticky label. I cut up some address labels.
The colours on the card will make it MUCH easier to keep track of what you’re doing.
watervole: (Judith)
This entry isn't displaying well on Dreamwidth - there should be several photos behind the cut. If you can't see them all, then read the entry on Livejournal where it seems to be fine. (If the cut tag doesn't work on LJ, click on the link just above. The problem on DW seems to be propagating to some views on LJ, but the entry is here in full)

Step 1

Decide how wide you'd like your band to be.  This will determine how many playing cards you need.Read more... )Read More )There is some guesswork involved in this, as yarn thicknesses are going to vary.

However, I shall set a crude rule of thumb and say that four warp threads are probably going to be around a centimetre.

This pattern will work for any width, but I wouldn't go below 8 cards, and if you go above 24, you're really getting a bit wide for a bookmark.

The width does not affect speed of weaving (well, not much), but it does affect the set up time as you have to prepare more cards and more warp threads.

I'm going to go with 16 cards for my own example, but I'd recommend 12 for beginners.They need to be square, so use one of the cards as a cutting guide and start chopping.


Now, round the corners. Doesn't need to be perfect.


Get out your hole punch and punch a hole in each corner of every card.  Try and make the results as symmetrical as possible.  You've got more cards than you actually need, so you can afford to waste a few cutting trial holes.


This is what the cards should look like after you've punched your holes.

DSC00503No, (evil grin), I'm not going to tell you what you're going to do with the cards.  That will be in the next post.


watervole: (Default)
Judith Proctor


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