watervole: (Default)
Judith Proctor ([personal profile] watervole) wrote2010-01-07 10:06 am

Heating and Insulation

This is what ten inches of loft insulation does (photo taken this morning):



The neighbours, as you will observe, have somewhat less.

We've got insulation in the loft floor, and also between the rafters in the roof.  We've got floor boards over the floor insulation, so we also have full use of the loft as storage space - and the ceiling insulation means that although the loft is cold, you don't freeze when you go up there in winter.

Interestingly, my mother-in-law (the incomparable Molly) has a similar roof effect, although she has no insulation at all.

She lives in a very old, half-timbered house.  It can't have things like cavity wall insulation. She turned down an offer of loft insulation from the council as she didn't feel it would benefit her, and there is no double-glazing.  She's 80, lives on her own (with her dog) on her pension, and you're probably now imagining a wretched old lady shivering in the cold.

Not Molly.  We phoned her last night just to be sure she was okay, though we knew it was almost certainly unnecessary.  She replied cheerfully that she was fine.  It was so cold last night that she actually turned the convection heater on in her bedroom for the first time in ages.  She's spending the day in the lounge and only bothering to heat the one room (coal fire), thus saving costs on heating the rest of the house.

She laughingly pointed out that she still has snow on her roof whereas her neighbours with insulation had none left on theirs.  She says they waste heat, heating every room and having the thermostat set far too high.

Molly just adds a thick wool jumper, wears warm socks, and only heats the room she actually needs.  (and with a coal fire, that room is very comfortable).  She'll keep warm by walking the dog, eat well by digging up a few veg from the garden, and hopefully be fit and well for many years yet to come.  (though we're all grateful to the friend who drove her to the shops to stock up on essentials just before the snow hit - Molly has a lot of friends, she's lived a long time in her village and has helped many local causes over the years).

Therefore the Proctor family tips on saving heating bills (and CO2 emissions) appear to be: insulate as well as you possibly can, only heat the rooms you really need to, and wear warm clothing.

[identity profile] steverogerson.livejournal.com 2010-01-07 01:34 pm (UTC)(link)
The problem in my house is the back door in that there are slight gaps around it that let the heat out. All the windows and front door seal properly and there is loft insulation. Can't afford a new back door though.
ext_15862: (Default)

[identity profile] watervole.livejournal.com 2010-01-07 01:46 pm (UTC)(link)
Draught proofing strips are dirt cheap. Go down to B+Q and get some, and a cheap curtain rail. Then go to Oxfam, get an old curtain and hang it on the rail and that will stop anything that gets past the draught excluder.

Reminds me, I really need to replace the strip around our front door. It's about a decade old now and part of it's come away.

(How thick is the loft insulation? Most people over-estimate what they have. It's worth actually going up there and measuring it.)

[identity profile] steverogerson.livejournal.com 2010-01-07 01:54 pm (UTC)(link)
Never bought draught proof strips - is there anything I need to know?
ext_15862: (Default)

[identity profile] watervole.livejournal.com 2010-01-07 03:20 pm (UTC)(link)
No specialist knowledge needed. You can buy self-adhesive stuff in a reel, or get longer-lasting plastic ones that tack in with small nails.

They're all cheap and any of the B+Q staff should be able to tell you how to fasten them (though it's usually clear on the packaging).

There's a few different varieties for going under the door (they're a bit more robust to cope with all the movement - often look like a thin brush).

[identity profile] steverogerson.livejournal.com 2010-01-07 03:55 pm (UTC)(link)
I have been looking at the door and think the gap is actually between the inner and outer frame of the door. Some sort of sealant is probably needed - any suggestions?
ext_15862: (Default)

[identity profile] watervole.livejournal.com 2010-01-07 05:11 pm (UTC)(link)
A lot would depend on the surfaces involved. I'd ask the B+Q staff what would stick best. (I imagine it will be one of those sealants that comes in a handy plunger tube)

Which reminds me, we need to replace a small section of sealant next to the bath...

[identity profile] rockwell-666.livejournal.com 2010-01-07 09:10 pm (UTC)(link)
Probably the best (although I'm not an expert) is the sort of expanding foam filler that is used when putting in double glazing etc.

Check with a local DIY store for advice, though.