Apparently it's a window width issue. I like my browser windows to default to portrait format rather than landscape (I'm used to reading documents). The site code assumes that everyone is using a single 'tabbed' window that occupies the entire width of the screen, and if the window width is less than what it deems to be desktop size then it attempts to serve up a version of the page tailored for mobile phones instead of the one with the strip of links across the top of the page.
If I resize the browser window to the maximum possible horizontal width and reload then the site serves up the links....
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I like my browser windows to default to portrait format rather than landscape (I'm used to reading documents).
The site code assumes that everyone is using a single 'tabbed' window that occupies the entire width of the screen, and if the window width is less than what it deems to be desktop size then it attempts to serve up a version of the page tailored for mobile phones instead of the one with the strip of links across the top of the page.
If I resize the browser window to the maximum possible horizontal width and reload then the site serves up the links....