watervole: (Default)
 Here's the first picture of Southern Star longsword.

Photo:


I know we'll often have different numbers of dancers, so I'm working on sword locks for different numbers of dancers.  This is a sword lock for four (in fact the only possible lock for four - anything else would fall apart).

You can see two more photos (including a six man lock) on the Southern Star Longsword website along with pictures of longsword dancers in Lingdale, Yorkshire in the 1960s.


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 One of the things I've wanted to do for the last few years is to start a longsword dance group.

A couple of weeks ago, I realised that if I didn't do it soon, I'd get too old to be able to do it at all.

So, I've taken the plunge. Southern Star Longsword will meet at our local library on Monday evenings.

I'd write more, but I'm knee deep in sorting out insurance, publicity, bank account, etc.

Even if the team doesn't get enough members to be viable, all these things still need to be done.

And, I also know from experience (getting Anonymous Morris started) that if you have the faith to do all these things and publicise and dance at every possible opportunity, then the odds are greatly increased that you will get your team off the ground.

I'm also on the committee for next year's Wimborne Minster Folk Festival, so getting seriously busy with that as well.
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 This video shows how to do double-faced tablet weaving. It's a harder to learn technique, but very versatile once you've mastered it.

You may want to click on the closed caption box if the sound is poor.  I've done a full set of subtitles.


I wasn't clear enough in the video about the card-turning sequence. Each 'square' on your chart requires two turns of the cards in the SAME direction - with a pass of the shuttle for each turn. Thus, there is an ongoing 2 forward, 2 backwards turning sequence throughout the weaving. This has the advantage of greatly reducing the amount of twist building up in the warp threads.



Here's my new shuttle that Alex Holden made for me.  I thought it was very good value for £10 including postage.  (I'm happy to supply his contact details if you want your  own) You may notice in the video that I've adapted my weaving style, now I have shuttle and beater combined in one.




Here's the pattern I used for my space invaders hat band; (the bottom two on the left were the ones I chose, but you could use any combination)



and here's how it came out:





Single threaded version above - alternately threaded version below


I'm very pleased with the result.

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 I've done the video, but the sound quality (as always) is very poor, so I'm adding subtitles. It's a slow process, but I'm half way through.

When I finally get there, you'll be able to weave anything from space invaders to alphabets (provided you buy/design the pattern you desire).
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Kudos to Funding Circle.

They've improved their system for withdrawing money so that it's much easier to use. As part of the change, you now get an email saying how much you've withdrawn and when.

Unfortunately, for a British company, the message gave you dates in American format 7/6/16 rather than 6/7/16, which is very confusing for some dates.

I wrote in pointing this out, and five days later, they are now sending out dates in British format.  A fast response, and a good one.

BTW, if anyone wants to invest in Funding Circle, (a peer to peer lending business), the average rate of return is 6%, it's dead  easy to withdraw small sums at any time and not too difficult to withdraw larger sums if you need them.

They're currently repeating their offer of £50 for new investors who invest over £1000 before the end of August.  You get £50 and I get £50 for the referral.  If interested, just ask me for a referral.  (Two LJ friends have taken up the offer in the past, and both have been happy with the results.)

I've been with them a couple of years now and find it a flexible way of investing my money.  A big plus for me is that the money is all invested in British businesses.


Rather less kudos to Worcester Funeral Services who have finally returned my mother-in-law's wedding ring two and a half months after she was cremated.  
watervole: (Default)
 An excellent (and surprisingly accurate for a newspaper article on morris) piece about the morris demonstration team of the English Folk Dance Society who fought in the Battle of the Somme, and mostly died there.

I'd come across some of the names before.

George Butterworth can be seen dancing in one of these clips form 1912  (and you may also note the existence of women like Maud Karpeles dancing at this date.)




watervole: (Default)
 Igenlode is a member of the BFI, and just noticed that this month's program includes a showing of "Stocker's Copper" at the National Film Theatre on the South Bank (Saturday 9th July) -- being prominently billed as "starring Gareth Thomas".

http://www.the-medium-is-not-enough.com/2016/06/what_tvs_on_at_the_bfi_in_july_including_the_wedne.php 




Stocker's Copper is well worth seeing.  This is the part that really got Gareth established in TV. 

He plays a Welsh policeman transferred to Cornwall during a clay miners strike.  The script is based on historical events.

As a Welshman, he is naturally  sympathetic to the Cornish miners, but as a policeman in a special unit and proud of his job, he is pulled in two directions.

He is billeted with a  Cornish family and gets very close to them in spite of their initial resentment at having him foisted on them.

As the strike draws on, the situation starts to deteriorate and the mine owners demand action.

This is well written drama, set at in 1913, a time when most people would never travel beyond the area they grew up in.   Communities were close and outsiders viewed with suspicion.

It's one of Gareth's best TV roles, he's young, handsome and working with a really good cast.


Here's the first part on YouTube (and parts 2 and 3 are also on You Tube - the picture quality isn't brilliant, so if you can see if at the NFT, then go for it!)
 

watervole: (Default)
 If you recall my problem with a book I recently bought on Amazon, here's how it worked out.

I filed an A-Z complaint - I think it was Aralias who suggested that - and I just got a full refund from Amazon of  £2.81.

I strongly suspect that Amazon are aware of this firm's 'no return postage' policy and tacitly allow it.  I imaging most customers give up early on in the process and either pay the postage or accept the crappy book.  But if you stick to your rights under the Amazon policy, you do eventually get your refund.

It probably helps that I regularly buy from Amazon and post positive feedback for the many good sellers there, so I clearly wasn't just trying it on.

It was a lot of effort for a refund that small, but I take a real dislike to people who try to con me.  Maybe it will make them describe their books a bit more accurately in future....
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 CAB completed here first weave.

She cheerfully confesses that the first set of vertical stripes were an accident, but nicely mirrored them at the end, so you'd never know.




She mentioned that her back was aching a bit. There are several ways of helping with this.  One is to anchor the weaving to a clamp on the table rather than your waist.  It gives you less control over the tension, but does mean you aren't looking down so much.

If the far end of the weaving is higher than your waist, even up to head height, this definitely helps as you don't have to bend over so much.  Also, consider ways of starting the actual weaving several inches away from your waist so that you don't have to look down so far. 

I'll do a future post on tablet weaving looms.  I haven't tried on yet, but I'm thinking about it. There are two main styles, neither is terribly expensive and both are fairly easy for anyone with a bit of woodworking skill to make themselves.

(I'm working on  a 'double-faced' tablet weave this week.  I'm trying to get past the initial  mistakes before I post anything about it.)

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There are several reasons why I want Britain to remain in the EU, but this one is head and shoulders above the rest.

 I love wildlife and I love people.  I want that wildlife to be there for my granddaughter and her descendants to enjoy.  

I want us to combat climate change so that there is a chance of reducing (it's already too late to prevent it totally) mass starvation, migration, and death for those in the worst affected areas.  I want to reduce the danger of increased floods, droughts, and losses in crop yields. Not to mention mass extinction of wildlife.

Much of our best and strongest environmental legislation comes from the EU.

Organisations like the RSPB and the Wildlife Trusts are pointing this out to their members - I belong to both.

Here's the summary of the report they commissioned.

and a few extracts:

EU environmental legislation has been driven by the single market requiring common rules for products and services –for instance, individual countries cannot distort competition by lowering their environmental standards.

Some of the main contributions of EU legislation to the environment over the years include:

• Achieving a substantial decline in industrial sources of air and water pollution – although there’s further to go, particularly in improving urban air quality and tackling water pollution from farming.

• Reducing greenhouse gas emissions and promoting rapid growth in renewable energy.

• A significant and extensive system for protecting wildlife and wild places - most notably through the Birds and Habitats Directives - that has helped to slow the loss of some habitats and species and invest resources in nature conservation. However, wildlife is still under significant pressure across Europe and much more needs to be done.

• Transforming waste management – increasing recycling rates and encouraging the first steps towards a more circular economy.

• Creating a thorough system for reviewing chemicals, and withdrawing many toxic substances from use.

• Building a legislative framework to protect our seas from mounting pressures.  


I do not believe UK politicians will do this on their own.  

The EU isn't perfect (the CAP still needs reform and the fisheries policies has only recently improved,) but the overall environmental record is a good one.  If we leave the EU, we will immediately lose the Birds and Habitats Directives and have nothing to replace the protection they give.
watervole: (Judith)
Look at what la avispa has done with her latest belt - she's woven it straight onto a buckle, which is a brilliant idea.
P1012663.JPG

The tablet weaving I've shown you so far had all the cards threaded the same way at the start.  It didn't matter which way, as long as they were all the same - though if you flipped some of the cards part way through, you effectively reversed the threading direction.

Now, I'm going to show you a simple repeating pattern in which the cards are threaded diffently from the start.

If you look at the hatband below (modelled by my lovely husband), you'll see that the 'stitch' direction is symmetrical across the middle of the band and that 's due to the cards being threaded in opposite directions.

You'll also notice, if you look carefully, a 'v' patter along each edge.  This is known as a 'warp-twined border' and gives a neat edge that helps the completed band to lie flat.



Now, we have to introduce a few technical terms:

Looking at the diagram below, you'll see the letters ABCD down one side.  These letters represent holes in an individual card.  The numbers represent the number of the card in the pack.

DSC00674DSC00552
Remember this playing card from way back at the beginning of my tablet weaving discussions?  If we look at the chart, we can see that for this pattern, card 4 has black thread in hole A, white in hole B, black in hole C and white in hole D. (In my case, black and white became purple and lilac)  there are a total of 40 dark and 24 light threads (4 x 16 in total)

Some people label the holes clockwise, some anticlockwise.  Most times it won't make any difference as the pattern will just come out reversed and you're pretty much bound to reverse the direction sometime during the weaving in any case, (but if you're doing a really complicated pattern from a chart, you may want to check.)


Now, you may have noticed the little arrows below the chart.  These are important and potentially very confusing.


Here, we have to talk about S and Z threading.

Imagine you have the cards all threaded and the warp threads tied to your belt ready to start weaving, now, visualise one of the cards.  The threads will enter a hole on one side of the card and come out the other side.  Look down on your cards from above and think of the direction of the central stroke in a capital S and Z and compare with the slant of the thread in the diagram.
The left-hand card is S-threaded and the right hand card is Z-threaded.

Some people use the terms left and right when talking about threading directions. I find this incredibly confusing as it all depends on how you visualise the terms.  (I visualised them the opposite way to the writer of the first book I read and I still rely on my pencil notes in the margin of the book to remember what she actually means.)

I suggest you convert all references to right and left threading to S-threading and Z-threading.

An arrow -> like card 1 in the threading diagram will be called left to right, but is acutally Z-threaded.

An arrow on a threading diagram like <- in the diagram above for cards 2-8, often refered to as being threaded right to left is actually S-threaded.

You'll notice that the edge card is threaded the opposite way to the one next to it. That's how you do the warp-twined border.

To carry out this pattern, you simply thread the cards, start turning the pack forward, and keep turning it forward with a shuttle pass on every turn.  When you've either got the length you desire, or have too much twist to carry on (more likely the latter), then change direction and turn backwards until you have as much twist as you can handle, etc.

The warp-twined border will look after itself.

NOTE - in patterns with frequent changes of direction, the warp-twined border will need different handling.  I'll deal with this when I move onto double-faced weaving.  Double-faced weaving is not suitable for a first project in tablet-weaving, but it is very versatile and can be used to weave anything from space invaders to alphabets.

NOW- why not try either the pattern above, or play with some squared paper and see what designs you can come up with yourself.  You can use as many different colours as you like and you can use any width of band (within reason), but you only have four rows to create your pattern in.
watervole: (Default)
 I recently bought a second-hand book on Amazon (as I do regularly)

This one was advertised as 'very good' condition.  

When it arrived, it was clearly in 'poor' condition.

The seller refuses to pay return postage or to give a refund unless I return the book paying for the postage myself.

I've not encountered this kind of policy before.  It is not mentioned anywhere when you buy the book and appears contrary to what I can determine of Amazon's policy with regard to marketplace sellers.

The book is of no great value, one of the endless supply a one penny plus postage.

It's the principle of the matter.

The fault is theirs.  The book was not as described and I would not have bought it if it had been properly described.

I do not see why I should be out of pocket.

The seller is based in the UK.  

IN the meantime, I suggest you avoid buying any books from SNayler books
watervole: (Default)
 I'm absolutely knackered.

We're in the process of putting Molly's house on the market.  We'd love to keep it as it holds many happy memories, but the family member living in Kent would not be able to afford to buy the rest out and those living in Dorset and elsewhere can't live in it as it's too far from work and family.

So, it goes up for sale, although my
 brother-in-law will continue to live there until we find a buyer, so the house won't be empty.

It's an old house.   The oldest part of it has massive thick stone walls and 500 years ago it was a grain store for the mill next door.  Later parts are half-timbered and have been everything from a forge to a pub.  In the last century it was a dairy and you can still see features like the dip well in the garden that was used for cooling milk churns.

Every generation to live there has made changes and additions. Molly did a lot of research into the history of the house - even gave a talk to members of the local history society.  

Her talk ended with: "Future owners of this house and large cottage garden will undoubtedly continue to alter things just as each family has in the past."

Which is a rather nice way of saying that future owners should not feel that they have to preserve a fossil from the past. They will doubtless do revolutionary things like introducing central heating and an upstairs toilet and other modern amenities...

We took the estate agent's advice and did massive de-cluttering and cleaning and moved various items of furniture. We cleaned all the windows, which made an amazing difference all on its own.

But most of our four days in Kent were spent in the garden. Molly's garden is very big and a real delight. It's an informal, partly wild garden that contains many interesting varieties of plants. She was a real plants-woman. There are many different varieties of garden plants like hellibores, geums, geraniums, pulmonarias, etc. as well as wild flowers like purple loosestrife, honesty, foxgloves, yellow loosestrife, primroses and more.

She managed all of this (apart from mowing the lawn and cutting the hedge) until she was in her mid-eighties and suffering from loss of vision and anemia. She loved her garden. People used to ask her why she didn't move somewhere with a smaller garden, but she always replied that it was the garden that kept her going.

The last year or two, she also had a gardener (Not the lawn and hedge man), a real gardener, the kind who can identify plants like burgenia, london pride and three different varieties of mint.

Sadly, last week he got a full time gardening job somewhere else and can't do the Dairy House garden any longer. And on only two hours a fortnight, he was only able to do a reasonable job - some sections were getting a bit overgrown.

Advertising for a gardener has so far produced two applications without the necessary plant knowledge - one was honest enough to admit she didn't after she'd looked at the garden and the other failed the phone interview in spite of trying to claim she could do it. Her definition of a weed would have removed virtually every self-seeded plant in the garden. Farewell love-in-a-mist, forget-me-not, etc.

So, in lieu of anyone else, Richard and I spent many hours weeding. Because we do know our plants. Molly taught us. Many of the plants in my own garden came from her and she loved showing me round her garden and talking about the different things growing there.

It's June and the garden looks fabulous.

I do so hope that the eventual buyer is a keen gardener (really, they'd be crazy to buy the place if they aren't). I'll not have any regrets if the house is changed, much though I love it, but it would really hurt if that wonderful garden was turned into a couple of tennis courts and a swimming pool.


Gardeners

May. 26th, 2016 02:24 pm
watervole: (Default)
 I am amused by Rated People who claim:

We have 1,800 recommended Gardeners & Garden Designers in Loose


That's more than the population of the village...

Eurovision

May. 17th, 2016 06:11 pm
watervole: (Default)
 If you watched Eurovision and loved "Love, Love, Peace, Peace" (the parody song by the presenters), but didn't watch the second semi-final, then you need to see this:


Scroll along 6 or seven mins and continue until 11 mins and see just how many familiar show tunes you recognise in the other parody song performed by the presenters.

watervole: (Default)
I'm getting questions from people starting on second projects - which is great!

A very common way of getting a neat edge on tablet  weaving, especially when you're doing patterns with a lot of warp floats, is to do a warp-twined border.

Warp floats (basically a double length stitch)  happen every time you change the direction that the cards are being turned and they can look messy when they occur along the edge.

 A warp-twined border is two cards at each edge that end up making a v-shaped pattern down each edge.  It's a nice strong edge and also helps reduce any tendency that some patterns have to twist the weaving.  The border cards are usually threaded with four threads all of the same colour, so the border is plain without any colour changes.
 
If all your cards have the back of the cards facing left (for example), then you would flip a few so that you ended up with:
 
LRLLLLLLLLLRL

In other words, flip the card that is one in from the edge.

You'll need to keep the two edge cards on both sides separate from the main pack.

The trick is to slide the edge cards away from the rest of the pack by a couple of centimetres.  Keep  both pairs the same distance away from you, but parallel to each other.

Let's assume for the sake of argument that you're doing a pattern of diamonds (which was one of the last options I showed on the mystery tablet weave).  Let's keep it  a very simple pattern of four turns forward and four turns backwards.  All the deck except the edge pairs will be turned as a block and  the main deck will be turning in a 4 forward, 4 backwards pattern.

The edge cards will follow a different pattern.  They do: "Turn forward until the warp threads are twisted enough to be a pain. Then turn backwards until the threads are twisted enough in the other direction to be a pain. Repeat."

So, a sequence of actions might be:
1.  Turn main pack forwards, turn edge cards forward (I would keep them separate from the main pack even though they are currently turning in the same direction - it reduces mistakes.)
2.  Main pack forward, edge cards forwards.
3.  Main pack forward, edge cards forwards.
4.  Main pack forward, edge cards forwards.
5.  Main pack backwards, edge cards forwards. (this is why you keep the packs separate so that you don't forget and start turning the edge cards backwards with the rest - this is the voice of experience speaking here!)
6-8 same as 5.

The other advantage of a border is that you can make it the same colour as your weft, and thus the weft become invisible at the edges.

I hope that's clear, if not, happy to answer questions as always.
watervole: (Default)
 We have a couple of completed projects now.

See la avispa  for a really lovely zig zag.  (She's got some good suggestions which are well worth reading on attaching the ends and I love her idea of attaching warp threads directly to a belt buckle)

and a diamond weave from Patsy Rose.  Patsy was the one with the idea of using plastic bag clips, and she's also improvised a clothes peg as a shuttle.

The joy of this particular loom set up is that you can get a lot of variations on the pattern with very little effort.  It's a great way of getting a good feeling for tablet weaving and the possibilities it offers.

I'll be doing a space invaders pattern soon.   That one's a lot more difficult.  It uses a similar card set up, but a different technique on the card turns.  I'm happy to post instructions and a video if people want to see it.  If you try it, expect to make some mistakes in the early part of the weave and allow extra length so you can keep going.  (Trying to undo more than one or two rows will drive you insane)

I can also post some set ups for other simple patterns if requested.

I can also explain what a warp-twined border is and why you might want to use one.  They're fairly straight-forward - and you'd need to learn that if you want to attempt the space invaders design.

watervole: (Default)
 I was going to post a video, but the focus was horrible...

At the end of your project, one of many ways of finishing it is to make a fringe.

There are several ways of making a fringe.

1.  Take small groups of warp threads (four or more, but your taste is whatever you prefer), making sure that some are from each side of the last weft thread.
Tie each group into a knot as close to the weft as possible. Make sure to include the weft thread in the knot next to the final edge.

Cut finished fringe to whatever length you desire.

2.   Take smaller groups of warp threads (two or more, but your taste is whatever you prefer), making sure that some are from each side of the last weft thread. 

Twist each group in the same direction and then twine the two groups around one  another (practice will quickly show you which direction works for this - if you do it the wrong way it will all come undone.  If you do it the right way, they will twine together like plied yarn.

Tie a knot at the bottom of the twist.

Trim ends however you like.

3. Exactly the same as method one, but you can make a second lower knot joining pairs of fringe together (and further knots lower down joining the other pair option - this ends up with a diamond pattern, but is really only suitable for wider pieces of weaving.

watervole: (Default)
 How many people can see the occasional captions in this video?
I can see them, but I know several other people can't.

Does anyone know why they're only visible to some people?

(I put a correction to the instructions in the captions, so I'd really like them to be visible...)


watervole: (Default)
  I finished my band for the Mystery Tablet Weave, so I thought I'd let you all see how it came out.
This is the bit you’ll see in the video.
This is where I started doing freeform and experimented with different pattern repeats.
I've added some subtitles to the latest video as the sound quality from my camera is pretty poor.
I haven't yet finished off the ends, which is why you can still see a plastic bag clip on the hat. I'll be showing you how to make a fringe at the end, shortly. There are many ways you can finish it off, but fringe is easy to do and makes use of the yarn left at the ends.
 
watervole: (Default)
I wrote this a long time ago, but  it's still a good song.

If anyone really wants to know the tune, I can sing for you  it once I find out how to fix my camera. 

tune: Cushy Butterfield (Little Polly Perkins of Paddington Green)

watervole: (Judith)
This makes Granny very happy...

Originally posted by [livejournal.com profile] entorien at My tweets

  • Thu, 18:24: So. Ummm. Health Visitor. Apparently Oswin is *way* ahead of the curve in pretty much every way! O_O

  • Thu, 18:25: She's doing things they don't even *look* for at her age, because she should be too young to understand them!

  • Thu, 18:26: I actually had to prove a couple of the things I said she does, and the look on the Health Visitor's face was one of stunned amazement.

  • Thu, 18:27: Apparently they only look for the very start of colour recognition, don't look for counting at all, and Oswin does lots of both.

  • Thu, 18:28: She can count to four fairly reliably, will go higher with a bit of help, knows the whole alphabet, can identify most colours...>

  • Thu, 18:29: <... uses two and three word sentences, knows her left from her right, and can identify more objects/animals than kids twice her age.

  • Thu, 18:29: What have we created??


I'd love Oswin anyway, but she loves learning and she's a real joy to have around.

She started counting because she's fascinated by our chiming clock and never fails to tell us when it's chiming. So we started counting the chimes as a game to play with her.

One of her favourite games is when she brings you a pack of playing cards with pictures and she tells you what they all are. She can pick out all 52 in the pack of British Garden Birds, and say a recognisable name for most of them and she only had her second birthday a couple of weeks ago.

Grandad likes birds, so he used to show her the cards and tell her about the birds, what they eat, where they live and so forth.  Then the game of picking out the cards developed from that and she absolutely loved the game and demanded to keep on playing it.  "Cards!"

She's getting to know some of the birds in real life as well.  We watch them in the garden and try to spot them when we're out walking.  "Robin gone"

She can reliably spot at least 10 different plants when we're outside.  Every single dandelion gets pointed out when we're walking back from playgroup, but bluebell, daisy, daffodil, holly, ivy, bramble are all easy and she knows where the helliores and chives are in my garden.

Most of that started as a way to stop her getting bored when walking home.  "Oswin, can you see a daffodil?", was a good way to make her walk on to show you the next one.

Neither us nor her parents have used a pushchair for six months or so.  Used to be that we'd have to carry her a little bit if we walked a long way, now she doesn't even need that.  On foot, she sees more, gets interested in more and gets to talk a lot more. She 'helps' in shops, finds things on shelves, puts them into the trolly, passes them to the check out lady, etc. All this invovles more conversation.

I wonder how many more children would have Oswin's vocabulary if their families were in less of a hurry and simply talked to them as they walked and let them explore at their own pace.


We're not deliberately setting out to teach her anything, but we involve her in lots of aspects of our daily lives and run with it when she finds something interesting.

Her most recent 'game' is sorting the cutlery into the draining rack while 'helping' wash the dishes.
watervole: (Default)
 I'm going to put a link to the video in the comments, so you can't see the first part of the pattern here.

It's very simple. The second part of the pattern is exactly the same as the first, but you rotate the pack of cards in the opposite direction, and keep doing this for 4-5cm, but which time you'll have undone all the twist.

At that point, you can either go the easy route and continue alternating the first and second parts of the pattern, or wait a couple of days and I'll show you how to do something unexpected to produce a third variation.  (There's a lot you can do with this particular loom set up - it's very flexible)

At the point where you change the direction of rotation, you'll see some longer than normal stitches.  Don't worry, these are perfectly normal. They're called warp floats and happen whenever you change direction on the card turns.


If you run out of yarn, it’s very easy to start off a new weft thread. Simply leave the end of the old yarn dangling on one side; give the cards the usual quarter turn and let the end of the new thread dangle on the same side. The twisting of the warp threads will hold the ends securely and when you’ve finished you can just snip the ends off. There’s no need to sew them in (you can if you really want to, but it isn’t necessary)
watervole: (Default)
la_avispa on Livejournal is the first one past the post.  I've seen the photo in her journal and it looks really good. She's done the pattern in turquoise and yellow.

Her tip is to use a plastic bag clip on either side of the cards when putting them away, instead of tying string around them.

A couple of people have flat edged shuttles that they're using as both shuttle and beater combined.  (I think I know where I can get one of those in a few weeks time, so I'll try that myself)  I'm worried they might be a bit lightweight as a beater, but it's certainly worth a try.
watervole: (Default)
 

You'll notice the warp threads on the far side of the cards becoming twisted.  Don't worry about this, it is normal, and we'll be doing something to unwind them later. 

After every few turns of the cards, insert your ruler in the shed on the other side of the cards  and push the twist back towards your attachment point.  This will stop the twist getting too close to your cards and making it difficult for you to move them.  You can also use the cards themselves to help most the twist away.  Sliding the deck up and down will move a lot of it and will probably mean you need to use the ruler less often.

 
watervole: (Default)
 Here’s how to fasten the pencil to a chair back or door handle.




I’d also recommend experimenting with plastic bag clips (as long as your band isn’t too wide for
the clip to handle. My cousin, Patsy Rose suggested this idea, and I like it.
I’ve used one clip to clamp all the threads, and a second clip to secure the ends wrapped around
one end of a small embroidery frame that I’m going to tuck into my belt. But you could just slide
the bag clip through your belt. (I like the embroidery frame because I can wind long pieces of
work around it, but this isn’t a long project, so you won’t need one)

How do I get all those warp threads to line up so smoothly?

The trick is to use the cards themselves as a comb. Secure one end of the warp threads
(I’d recommend the end furthest away from you) and do it with the block of cards close
to that end. Now, hold the cards loosely as a block and slide them towards you, threads
will miraculously straighten out with lovely even tension.

If you have all the dark marks on your cards facing upwards (rotate the cards in a vertical
plane until this is the case), then you will see what is in the picture below. All your dark
threads will be evenly combed on top, and all your light threads will be evenly combed
on the bottom.

I don’t expect this to take you very long, so I’m going to go away and video the first bit of actual
weaving! (Would have done it yesterday, but we had unexpected baby-sitting)
watervole: (Default)
 Each end of our loom needs to be secured before weaving can begin.
What we are creating here is a ‘weaver tensioned loom’. This means that one end is fastened to a fixed point: the back of a chair, a door handle, a clamp, or anything else handy, and the other end is fastened to the weaver’s waist using a belt. This means that loom tension can be easily adjusted by leaning back or forwards, or by moving your chair a little.
I’m going to show several options here.
The simplest one of all is the overhand knot. I did my first piece of tablet weaving this way. It works okay, but other methods allow the cards to slide a little more freely.




The knot can be tied to your door handle, back of chair, etc. just by tying a spare bit of yarn round it and tying the yarn above the knot.







At the weaver end of the loom, it can be tucked through your belt.
Another option for the end away from the weaver is using weaver’s knots to attach the warp threads to a pencil.









Pass the threads under the pencil and outside the initial threads.
Tie a simple knot and add a bow or half bow if you have enough yarn left.


See that loop of string fastened to the pencil at both ends? That’s important.
Weaver’s knots slide sideways easily - that string in a tight knot (I use a clove hitch) stops it sliding off the pencil.
(You can also use the string to loop once or twice round the top of a clamp, if you happen to be using a
clamp to hold your end.)
If you go with the weaver’s knot option, make sure you have several cards worth of
threads in each knot, or you’ll spread the warp threads too far apart.


watervole: (Judith)
Here’s how to fasten the pencil to a chair back or door handle.




I’d also recommend experimenting with plastic bag clips (as long as your band isn’t too wide for
the clip to handle. My cousin, Patsy Rose suggested this idea, and I like it.
I’ve used one clip to clamp all the threads, and a second clip to secure the ends wrapped around
one end of a small embroidery frame that I’m going to tuck into my belt. But you could just slide
the bag clip through your belt. (I like the embroidery frame because I can wind long pieces of
work around it, but this isn’t a long project, so you won’t need one)

How do I get all those warp threads to line up so smoothly?

The trick is to use the cards themselves as a comb. Secure one end of the warp threads
(I’d recommend the end furthest away from you) and do it with the block of cards close
to that end. Now, hold the cards loosely as a block and slide them towards you, threads
will miraculously straighten out with lovely even tension.

If you have all the dark marks on your cards facing upwards (rotate the cards in a vertical
plane until this is the case), then you will see what is in the picture below. All your dark
threads will be evenly combed on top, and all your light threads will be evenly combed
on the bottom.

I don’t expect this to take you very long, so I’m going to go away and video the first bit of actual
weaving! (Would have done it yesterday, but we had unexpected baby-sitting)
watervole: (Judith)
Each end of our loom needs to be secured before weaving can begin.
What we are creating here is a ‘weaver tensioned loom’. This means that one end is fastened to a fixed point: the back of a chair, a door handle, a clamp, or anything else handy, and the other end is fastened to the weaver’s waist using a belt. This means that loom tension can be easily adjusted by leaning back or forwards, or by moving your chair a little.
I’m going to show several options here.
Read more... )



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